THE EFFECT OF KNITTED STRUCTURE ON THE QUALITY OF KNIT FABRIC FOR SHOE MATERIALS USING STOLL WEFT KNITTING MACHINES

Abstract

One of the existing on the market today is knitted sportwear that are used for sports and daily activities because of the convenience and comfort it provides. One of its advantages is its durability. The durability of the fabric is closely related to the upper flat knitted stitch, to meet people's needs for trainer functional and decorative performance, it is very important to research the stitch. Flat Knitted Upper shoe shape is obtained by reorganizing the looping, tucking, floating, transfer, racking, and other process modules according to the knitted design, to form the fabric structure with certain rules and the fabric durability reaches perfection. Forming the upper shoe material. Two designs (that is, functional design and decorative design) are proposed for the formed upper organizational structure, to better take advantage of its shaping advantages, meet the durability requirements of upper materials, and achieve good decorativeness. This study aims to make a product that at least has the same quality as the comparison of existing product, Diadora 91115 NV Alonzo, in term of quality, comfort such as air permeability, fabric density, thickness and durability of footwear such as break resistance, water resistance from fabric. The product was produced in Stoll CMS 530 HP by using two raw materials (yarns), polyester Td 300 and Cotton Carded Ne1 32/2. Polyester and Cotton were chosen as raw materials for making these shoes with the aim of obtaining 2 different properties from each material for these shoes. Polyester has low moisture absorption properties, good resilience and dimensional stability, and excellent wear resistance. In addition to modifying the properties of each characteristic, plating technique were used to obtain motifs to increase the aesthetic value of the fabric. Three different knitted fabric structures were designed on M1 Plus 6.7.056. As the primary structure, knit structure design 1 used tubular and purl knit structure to produce a replica of the knit structure of the Diadora shoe fabric. Knit structure design 2 and knit structure design 3 used knit structure 1 as primary structure design, which has knit structure replaced by 1x1 Rib structure on fifth course for Knit structure design 2 and on second and forth Course for Knit structure design 3. The evaluation and testing on these three knitted fabric and existing product (Diadora 91115 NV Alonzo) were conducted such as fabric construction (CPI, WPI), fabric density and thickness. Additionally, air permeability, water resistance, and burst strength were conducted to determine its potential as shoe materials. As a result, in term of fabric construction and thickness, knit structure design 3 has closely the number of CPI and WPI as existing product (Diadora). Nevertheless, all three knit structures have less fabric density which has likely more lightweight than Diadora. In term of air permeability and burst strength properties, knit structure design 2 has better performance of all structure comparison by 69.7 cm³/cm²/s and 1150 kPa, respectively.