Indonesian Textile Conference

SOME STUDIES ON THE THERMOPHYSIOLOGICAL COMFORT OF HIJAB FABRICS WORN BY FEMALE MUSLIM ATHLETES

2022-10-03T08:36:27+07:00

In general, Muslim women who play sports will wear a sports hijab that look aesthetic, easy to wear and comfortable. Nevertheless, in a hot and humid weather, they may feel clampy and unease at times. This paper reports some studies on the comfort aspects of several commercial hijab fabrics through a blind evaluation test and wear trials with certain test protocols. Respondents chosen were undergraduate students who are accustomed to wearing hijab while doing physical exercises and sporting activities. The findings revealed that the fabric consisting of polyester and spandex gave the smoothest, softest, and coolest feel from the blind evaluation test. The same fabric gave exceptionally high scores after the wear trials. The 100% cotton and 100% polyester hijab fabrics were rated as uncomfortable to wear during sporting activities. Besides the fibre type, the comfort aspects of the fabrics also very much depended on the fabric structures, parameters and properties such as air permeability and moisture management.

IMPLEMENTATION OF ZERO WASTE ON ULAP DOYO FABRIC IN READY-TO-WEAR FASHION PRODUCT

2022-11-13T13:14:45+07:00

Ulap Doyo is a traditional ikat cloth made from the Doyo leaf fiber, that grows in Kalimantan, Indonesia. Ulap Doyo is a fabric whose motifs are correlated with the social strata, and visuals motifs inspired by various flora, fauna, and the abstraction of human life history. Ulap Doyo has a natural dye base, the coloring is done before Ulap Doyo becomes cloth, which is the fibers that after being obtained from cutting plants, then processed with the preparation based on the motifs that will be formed in the tie technique, colors dyeing is carried out later until finally woven into cloth. Based on the origin and manufacturing process of Ulap Doyo, this cloth can be categorized as a zero-waste product. These uniqueness of Ulap Doyo can be a source of inspiration to process Ulap Doyo into fashion products. This research consistent in applying the zero-waste concept to fashion products. Research on Ulap Doyo was carried out by taking direct data (interview) and literature studies. The data collection is directly on the weavers and the indigenous Dayak Benuaq in Tenggarong, East Kalimantan. Then the data processed using exploration methodology techniques to get creativity to place Ulap Doyo fabrics and motifs as focal points in the design, and can be combined and matched with the supporting fabrics so it looks ethnic, modern, and visually designed that emphasizes the asymmetrical side. The final result in this study, not only fashion products but also a description of zero waste that carried out in the process of making fashion products, especially in terms of cutting fabric which is expected to minimize waste.

THE EUROPEAN GREEN DEAL – NEW REQUIREMENTS FOR EUROPEAN MARKET ENTRY OF TEXTILE PRODUCTS

2022-09-28T09:26:13+07:00

Under the EU Green Deal policy package, a set of new regulatory requirements addressing advanced sustainable performances to be matched by textile products entering the EU markets has been adopted. This incorporates notably the setting of EU carbon border tax policies, due diligence guidelines addressing human rights, greenwashing, and reporting to ensure more transparency in the supply chain. The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles (03/2022) will require further new regulations beyond 2030 on product sustainability
criteria, including Digital Product Passports. Textiles long-lived and recyclable, made as much as possible of recycled fibres, free of hazardous substances and produced in respect of social rights and the environment. This paper introduces an overview on the European Green Deal package’s specific objectives for the global textile production value chains and provides integrated management solutions for the textile production sector. Selected certification and sustainability tools are introduced, which will help to build up a sustainable supply chains to meet the upcoming demands. A classification of these tools will be presented.

Marker Efficiency Improvement By Using Computer Aided Design (CAD) System As An Implementation Of 4.0 In Garment Industry

2022-10-03T08:39:05+07:00

Technology development are increasing rapidly with the arrival of industrial revolution 4.0. The purpose of the 4.0 industry is to make manufacturing industries and related industries works faster, more efficient, and costumer oriented, on the same time 4.0 industries is able to go beyond automatization, and optimalization. On a garment industry, especially on pattern and marker making process is being done by utilizing computerization, adopting the process of making it manually and being done by computer software CAD (Computer Aided Design). Utilization of CAD can increase the effectivity and the efficiency of marker, therefore this research plan is for the purpose gain a higher marker efficiency. The utilization of AccuMark Gerber will affect the time consumed by pattern making relatively brief and the result can also be automatically be transferred into a pattern making software. This research result is a form of comparison of marker efficiency between marker that made manually and made automatically using Gerber AccuMark. The methodology used is field study on component pattern arrangements on marker. The result shows that the marker efficiency made manually is 84,68%. That points is much higher than the marker that is arranged automatically by system which is 79%.

Effect of Batching and Microwave Heating Time on Color Properties of Cotton Fabric Dyed with Reactive Dyes on Laboratory Scale

2022-09-23T10:33:05+07:00

The fixation using a batching technique on a Cold-Pad-Batch (CPB) reactive dyeing process at room temperature is typically carried out for several hours to get a good color strength on the cotton fabric. The lengthy batching time becomes a problem when undertaking the color matching process because the operator must wait long enough to get the dyeing results evaluated before the production process. In this work, we tried to shorten the batching time by adding a microwave heating step after the batching process (Cold-Pad-Batch-Microwave) and then compared the dyeing results in terms of color strength (K/S) and color difference (ΔE) between both methods. Experiment results revealed that the Cold-Pad-Batch-Microwave dyeing method can be used to shorten the dyeing time to get similar color strength value as opposed to the conventional Cold-Pad-Batch dyeing. The batching time of 1 hour and the microwave heating time 25 minutes are the recommenced condition in the Cold-Pad-Batch-Microwave dyeing method which has comparable K/S values of the conventional CPB method and has good ΔE value.

THE EFFECT OF KNITTED STRUCTURE ON THE QUALITY OF KNIT FABRIC FOR SHOE MATERIALS USING STOLL WEFT KNITTING MACHINES

2022-11-07T08:06:25+07:00

One of the existing on the market today is knitted sportwear that are used for sports and daily activities because of the convenience and comfort it provides. One of its advantages is its durability. The durability of the fabric is closely related to the upper flat knitted stitch, to meet people's needs for trainer functional and decorative performance, it is very important to research the stitch. Flat Knitted Upper shoe shape is obtained by reorganizing the looping, tucking, floating, transfer, racking, and other process modules according to the knitted design, to form the fabric structure with certain rules and the fabric durability reaches perfection. Forming the upper shoe material. Two designs (that is, functional design and decorative design) are proposed for the formed upper organizational structure, to better take advantage of its shaping advantages, meet the durability requirements of upper materials, and achieve good decorativeness. This study aims to make a product that at least has the same quality as the comparison of existing product, Diadora 91115 NV Alonzo, in term of quality, comfort such as air permeability, fabric density, thickness and durability of footwear such as break resistance, water resistance from fabric. The product was produced in Stoll CMS 530 HP by using two raw materials (yarns), polyester Td 300 and Cotton Carded Ne1 32/2. Polyester and Cotton were chosen as raw materials for making these shoes with the aim of obtaining 2 different properties from each material for these shoes. Polyester has low moisture absorption properties, good resilience and dimensional stability, and excellent wear resistance. In addition to modifying the properties of each characteristic, plating technique were used to obtain motifs to increase the aesthetic value of the fabric. Three different knitted fabric structures were designed on M1 Plus 6.7.056. As the primary structure, knit structure design 1 used tubular and purl knit structure to produce a replica of the knit structure of the Diadora shoe fabric. Knit structure design 2 and knit structure design 3 used knit structure 1 as primary structure design, which has knit structure replaced by 1x1 Rib structure on fifth course for Knit structure design 2 and on second and forth Course for Knit structure design 3. The evaluation and testing on these three knitted fabric and existing product (Diadora 91115 NV Alonzo) were conducted such as fabric construction (CPI, WPI), fabric density and thickness. Additionally, air permeability, water resistance, and burst strength were conducted to determine its potential as shoe materials. As a result, in term of fabric construction and thickness, knit structure design 3 has closely the number of CPI and WPI as existing product (Diadora). Nevertheless, all three knit structures have less fabric density which has likely more lightweight than Diadora. In term of air permeability and burst strength properties, knit structure design 2 has better performance of all structure comparison by 69.7 cm³/cm²/s and 1150 kPa, respectively.

Exploration of Kaganga Batik Painting Techniques On Lantung Bark Material with The Application Of Applique and Raffia Embroidery Techniques in Ready-To-Wear Deluxe

2022-11-07T08:05:33+07:00

Indonesia is a culturally diverse country with thousands of different cultural traditions dispersed over the archipelago. Bengkulu Province is one of the islands in Indonesia with natural and cultural wealth that has its own characteristics and uniqueness. One of the characteristics obtained from the Bengkulu forest is Lantung bark. Kaganga batik is a culturally unique product made according to the philosophy of Rejang, one of Bengkulu's districts. Due to a lack of innovation in lantung bark products and the introduction of kaganga batik, these two things are less well-known and kept among Indonesians today. One way to maintain both is to combine kaganga batik with batik painting techniques on lantung bark cloth in a fashion product ready-to-wear deluxe. Clothing shows the concept of classic, structural, and edgy fashion in the form of ready-to-wear deluxe women's clothing. Fashion items are manufactured by putting kaganga batik with a diwo motif to lantung bark material using the batik painting technique. In addition, to give interest and aesthetic value to the outfit, kaganga batik using lantung bark material was applied with an appliqué and raffia embroidery technique in the form of curves of the island line of Bengkulu province.

INFLUENCE OF TEXTILE LIQUID WASTE TREATMENT METHODS ON CONCENTRATIONS OF ADSORBEN BOTTOM ASH

2022-09-28T08:44:44+07:00

Liquid waste treatment must be carried out by every textile industry before being discharged into the environment, this needs to be done so as not to cause a bad impact on water resources or prevent environmental damage. This research is an experimental wastewater treatment by utilizing solid waste from coal, namely bottom ash with a comparison of two methods, which include filtration and batch. This experiment aims to become an alternative for wastewater treatment that can be used to reduce water pollution levels in the environment by utilizing waste water. This experiment was conducted by comparing two methods, namely the filtration method in which the waste flows through a cylindrical glass column in which there is foam, gravel, and bottom ash, while the batch method is to ensure even contact between the adsorbent and the adsorbate. Parameter evaluation carried out are Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD), Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD), and Total Suspended Solid (TSS). Based on the results of research and testing conducted on waste treatment using bottom ash is proven to be the best results on the filtration method. The COD parameters for the Filtration method and the Batch method for COD results from the Filtration method are 268.8 mg O₂/L while the COD produced by the Batch method is 576 mg O₂/L. In this TSS test the result of the Filtration method is 20 mg/L while the Batch method is 200 mg/L. For BOD testing, the results of the Filtration method are still better than the Batch method. The result of the Filtration method is 104 mg O₂/L while the Batch method is 134 mg O₂/L.

THE EFFECT OF CURRENT AND TIME ON COD (CHEMICAL OXYGEN DEMAND) AND COLOR DEGRADATION IN THE ELECTROCOAGULATION PROCESS OF BATIK WASTEWATER

2022-09-23T10:18:01+07:00

The development of the batik industry is very high after being recognized as a world cultural heritage by UNESCO in 2009. The development of the batik industry is directly proportional to the waste generated. The batik industry produces liquid waste that can pollute the environment, especially from leftover dyes, washing and rinsing residues, and pelorodan (wax relieve) water. The contaminants found in the batik industry are organic materials, heavy metals, suspended solids, oils and fats. The liquid waste can have a negative impact on the ecosystem, so it needs to be treated before being discharged into the environment. There are various wastewater treatment processes that can be resolved the negative impacts that caused by the pollution of the batik industry wastewater, and one of it is electrocoagulation. Electrocoagulation is a process of destabilizing suspensions, emulsions, and solutions containing contaminants by flowing direct current which causes flocs so they are easily precipitated. The electrocoagulation process does not use chemicals so it is environmentally friendly and need faster time. In this study, the batik industry located in Bandung City use electrocoagulation process for the wastewater treatment. Processing is using an electrocoagulation reactor capacity of 6 liters. Variations in the experiments carried out were current and time. The varied currents were 0.5 A, 1 A, 1.5 A, 2 A, and 2,5 A and the time varied were 10, 15, 20, and 25 minutes. Based on the results of these experiments, it was shown that the optimum condition of the electrocoagulation process for batik wastewater treatment was with a current of 2.5 A for 25 minutes. These conditions was decrease COD value and color absorbance of the treated waste. The COD value of the effluent decreased to 81.6 mg/l with a treatment efficiency of 95.04% and color absorbance 0.231 at a maximum wavelength of 284 nm with a processing efficiency of 46%.

MAKING AN APPLICATIONS FOR CALCULATION OF RAW MATERIAL REQUIREMENTS, MACHINERY AND DATABASE DEVELOPMENT USING VISUAL STUDIO 2019

2022-12-07T07:57:47+07:00

ABSTRACT

The desire to fulfill needs quickly and ease in carrying out work encourages people to find the latest technologies in all fields, one of which is the presence of artificial intelligence such as programming on computers. The benefits of using technology as a tool in production in industry are clearly felt. Therefore, technology, both hardware and software that can support and simplify the production process is very much needed in an industry in order to increase productivity and production efficiency. The purpose of this research is to make it easier to perform calculations and determine the number of machines and raw materials to be used without the need to do calculations manually and can be completed in a short time. Program design consists of the preparation of program, program creation, database creation, program implementation, and system testing of the program that has been created. Based on the test results, it can be concluded that the program made can be said to be successful because the results of manual calculations and using applications, there are no significant differences apart from decimal rounding.